Lazy weekend Canoe 2.0 Build of Material and Hints and Tips

Bill of Material
(3) sheets of 1/4" ACX or marine plywood
(1) 16' to 20' 2x8, 10, or 12 (or shorter, if you don't mind scarfing)
(200-300) #6 3/4" stainless steel screws
(8) 2" stainless steel or corrosion resistant screws
(2) tubes of PL Premium or a quart of TiteBond III - does not need epoxy
(1) tube of exterior, paintable caulk.
(more than 1) quart of paint or varnish
Brushes and such

Recommended Tools
Circular saw with guide - for ripping 1x2s from the 2x material and cutting sides/seats
Table saw - for shaping the stems (or ripping 1x2s)
Saber saw - for cutting plywood parts
Hand saw or flush cut saw - for trimming stems
Chop saw - for cutting frame pieces
Router with 1/4"or 3/8" roundover bit
Power planer - though a hand planer or belt sander with coarse paper will work, too.
Orbital sander
Powered screw driver with bit for the screws listed above
1/8" drill bit for pilot holes

Hints and Tips
This project is so easy it can be done in a lazy weekend. With effort, a person can go from unloading the lumber to having a paintable boat in about 12 hours, but that's working hard.

Regular, cheap-o 1/4" ACX or even 5mm underlayment is fine, so long as it is rated for exterior use, it'll work just fine.

The chines and gunnels need to be fairly knot-free, the stress of the bend will cause them to break.

The thwarts need to be fairly knot-free as they become the seat supports and have to hold up your weight.

The stems and frame arms can be fairly well riddled with knots.

The most cost effective way to get knot-free timbers is to rip them from 2x material - wider lumber usually has fewer knots, just pick through the pile until you find a board you like. I recommend going for a 20' 2x12 just to save the hassle of scarfing.

When working quickly, I usually use 1", coarse thread, drywall screws with fender washers to hold the butt-joints while the glue cures. This way, I can be building while the glue cures.

Once the glue has cured, remove the screws and fill the holes with round toothpicks dipped in glue. Once that glue has cured, slice off the bits of toothpick that are sticking out.

If you don't want the middle seat, you can just use screws to hold the center frames in place during assembly. Once the chines and gunnels are on, you can remove the center frames and the boat will still hold it's shape.